About Quezaltenango (Xela)
The second largest city in Guatemala (pop. 150,000), Quezaltenango is also known as Xela (SHAY-la). Once a Maya city, today it has lovely cobblestone streets and lots of Neoclassic architecture. It's a good place to buy Maya handwoven products and learn Spanish -- it has several language schools for those who want a more thorough immersion than Antigua can offer. It is also known as the coldest city in Guatemala, so take a jacket (Quezaltenango is 7,650 ft/2,333 m above sea level).
Sights include the Municipal Theater, the city market and Central America Park, a beautiful square with a cathedral and museum. Concerts and folkloric dances often take place there. A special handicrafts market is held the first Sunday of the month. Tour operators frequently package Quezaltenango with a trip to Chichicastenango and Lake Atitlan.

Several day trips and excursions are available from Quezaltenango. Nature lovers will want to visit the Aguas Calientes de Georginas (these are sometimes not so much "hot" springs as lukewarm springs -- they can be dirty, too -- but the drive there is beautiful). Or head for Cerro El Baul National Park, overlooking the city. North of Quezaltenango are several villages: Salcaja, where you can visit the Church of San Jacinto (Tuesday is market day); San Cristobal Totonicapan, which also has a nice church (Sunday is market day); Totonicapan (Tuesday and Saturday markets); San Francisco el Alto (a Friday market that is quite good); Momostenango, where you'll see the Los Riscos limestone outcroppings (the town is known for wool blankets); and Nahuala, where you can get a good glimpse of typical village life.

Villages west of Quezaltenango include San Marcos (hot springs); Concepcion Chiquirichapa (wooden-furniture manufacturing); San Pedro Sacatepequez (lovely Indian-made clothing); San Martin Sacatepequez (baskets); and San Juan Ostuncalco (furniture manufacturing). Several hours north and west of Quezaltenango are the ruins of Zaculeu (a Maya religious center that was conquered by the Spanish in 1525) and the towns of Huehuetenango (a large market town), Chiantla (a nice local church) and Almolonga (try a bath in hot mineral water). Quezaltenango is 65 mi/105 km west of Guatemala City.